My dad and I both have chemical sensitivities. Those with chemical sensitivities often have allergies or are sensitive to pollens or other substances that plants produce. My dad and I have benefitted enormously from air purifiers—the difference is like night and day. When the plant growth is at its height, my dad will run three or more air purifiers at the same time.
I have lived in a rural area and am extremely sensitive to the grasses when they go to seed. The effect the grasses have on me is like kryptonite! I become extremely tired and can barely function. However, with air purifiers running, I feel almost normal when I am in the house. It is also important to make sure the house is sealed pretty well. I sealed some air gaps in our windows and that helped a lot.
I have noticed that air purifiers also reduce the effect of herbicides such as 2,4-D. Every year, usually in early May, the church next door to my home sprays a liquid application of 2,4-D to kill dandelions and other weeds.[FN1] I have to move to a different home before the herbicide is sprayed. I stay in the other home for about a week and wait for the herbicide to dissipate. After I return, I can still feel the herbicide somewhat, but I have noticed that turning on an air purifier reduces my symptoms.
My dad and I have done great with Honeywell air purifiers. My dad said that the black prefilter on one of his models had chemicals on it that he could feel, so he just took it off and he said it still worked fine. I have not noticed any problems from the prefilter myself. We have purchased at least five of these over the years.
FN1: The man who sprays the pesticide is very nice and lets me know when he is going to spray. I have gently tried to persuade him to switch to the granule formulation because it does not affect me as much (less pesticide becomes airborne when it is in a granule rather than a mist). However, he does not believe that the granule formulation is as effective and I have heard that it is less cost effective to apply the granules.
Thursday, February 21, 2013
Avoiding Electromagnetic Hypersensitivity
The illnesses of chemical sensitivity and Electromagnetic Hypersensitivity (EHS) seem to be related and individuals sometimes suffer from both conditions. I developed EHS about two or three years after I became chemically sensitive. Those with EHS have symptoms when exposed to certain frequencies of electromagnetic radiation. For example, I have pain in my hands when I use a computer keyboard. The longer I use it, the more pain I experience. Consequently, I can generally only use a computer for a couple of hours per day.
I believe it is a good idea for those with chemical sensitivity to limit their exposure to electrical devices as much as is possible or practical, especially avoiding devices that produce powerful electromagnetic fields. By taking steps to limit ones exposure to electromagnetic radiation, it may be that a person with chemical sensitivity can avoid developing EHS. With the knowledge I now have, here are the steps I might take to lessen my exposure to electromagnetic radiation:
I believe it is a good idea for those with chemical sensitivity to limit their exposure to electrical devices as much as is possible or practical, especially avoiding devices that produce powerful electromagnetic fields. By taking steps to limit ones exposure to electromagnetic radiation, it may be that a person with chemical sensitivity can avoid developing EHS. With the knowledge I now have, here are the steps I might take to lessen my exposure to electromagnetic radiation:
- Eliminate or limit microwave use. Try to stay far away from a microwave when it is on. Microwaves are one of the most powerful sources of electromagnetic radiation for me.
- Limit computer use. This is hard to do when you use a computer to work from home.
- Limit television and radio. Speakers are powerful electromagnets. Keep the volume low and avoid headphones. As far as televisions and computer monitors, LCDs have been better for me than CRTs. I have heard that LED backlit monitors are better than LCDs but I have not tried an LED monitor.
- Switch from wireless to wired internet and computer networks. This one step made a big difference for me.
- Limit phone use, especially cell phones. Using a speaker phone is better than having the phone next to your ear and your hand. It is better not to carry a cell phone in your pocket or near you if it is on.
- Avoid or limit exposure to devices with powerful electric motors: hybrid cars, vacuum cleaners, blenders, electric tools (e.g. saws, drills), etc.
- Avoid electric shavers.
- Avoid living near high voltage power lines.
- Avoid sleeping near electrical equipment.
- Turn off electrical devices such as computers when not in use.
- Avoid electric blankets.
- Avoid infrared such as infrared saunas.
- Use electromagnetic shielding or other equipment to limit exposure to electromagnetic fields. I have purchased electromagnetic shielding materials from the following site:
I also have a blog entitled Tips for Living with Electromagnetic Hypersensitivity: http://tipsforehs.blogspot.com/.
Wednesday, February 20, 2013
Washable Pens for the Chemically Sensitive
I am chemically sensitive, and one of the challenges I face is obtaining writing instruments that do not have chemicals on them. I have found that if I put pens through the dishwasher, the chemicals can often be washed off.
Test tube pens
One idea that has worked well for me is to put pens (usually BIC pens) in plastic test tubes (with the writing tip pointed out), held in place with plastic disposable straws. That way, I only touch the plastic test tube and do not touch the pen. Chemicals can be removed from the hard plastic test tube more readily than from the plastic and rubber pens, which are made of material that is softer and more porous. If the test tube pen gets chemicals on it, I just throw the entire thing in the dishwasher. The BIC pens usually continue to work after going through the dishwasher. Although chemicals can be easily washed from glass, I would not recommend glass test tubes because they can be dangerous if they break. I broke one once when I was trying this idea. Here is what my test tube pens look like:
One downside to this test tube pen idea is that water gets up into the test tube and sometimes comes out when I am writing on something. This hasn’t been a big problem for me, however. Also, the pen is a little wobbly because it is held in place by flexible straws. However, as a whole, this test tube pen idea has really been beneficial for me. I purchased 50 16x150mm Clear Plastic Test Tubes from Amazon.com from the seller Lake Charles Manufacturing. I put the test tubes and pens through the dishwasher before I assembled them. I used disposable straws I purchased from Walmart and cut the straws down to the appropriate length. I used three straws per test tube pen.
Shop plastic test tubes at Amazon.com
I also purchased a test tube rack. It is good for drying the pens upside down so that the water drains out. It is also just a good place for keeping the pens free of chemicals.
Below are some pens that I like to use:
Sarasa
I really like these pens: Zebra Pen, Sarasa Gel Retractable Pen, Medium, 0.7mm, Black Ink. As far as chemical sensitivities, they have been tolerable for me right out of the packaging. However, these pens are much more expensive than a BIC ballpoint pen. If the pens get chemicals on them, I found that if I remove the ink cartridge and the rubber grip from the Sarasa pen, I can put them through the dishwasher. However, it is a little bit of work to take them apart, wash them, and put them back together.
BIC pens
I use a lot of BIC pens. I like these because they usually work even after they go through the dishwasher. I mostly use two types:
BIC Ultra Round Stic Grip Ball Pen, Medium Point, 1.2mm, Black.
BIC Round Stic Ball Pen, Medium Point, 1.0 mm, Black.
Good luck!
Test tube pens
One idea that has worked well for me is to put pens (usually BIC pens) in plastic test tubes (with the writing tip pointed out), held in place with plastic disposable straws. That way, I only touch the plastic test tube and do not touch the pen. Chemicals can be removed from the hard plastic test tube more readily than from the plastic and rubber pens, which are made of material that is softer and more porous. If the test tube pen gets chemicals on it, I just throw the entire thing in the dishwasher. The BIC pens usually continue to work after going through the dishwasher. Although chemicals can be easily washed from glass, I would not recommend glass test tubes because they can be dangerous if they break. I broke one once when I was trying this idea. Here is what my test tube pens look like:
One downside to this test tube pen idea is that water gets up into the test tube and sometimes comes out when I am writing on something. This hasn’t been a big problem for me, however. Also, the pen is a little wobbly because it is held in place by flexible straws. However, as a whole, this test tube pen idea has really been beneficial for me. I purchased 50 16x150mm Clear Plastic Test Tubes from Amazon.com from the seller Lake Charles Manufacturing. I put the test tubes and pens through the dishwasher before I assembled them. I used disposable straws I purchased from Walmart and cut the straws down to the appropriate length. I used three straws per test tube pen.
Shop plastic test tubes at Amazon.com
I also purchased a test tube rack. It is good for drying the pens upside down so that the water drains out. It is also just a good place for keeping the pens free of chemicals.
Below are some pens that I like to use:
Sarasa
I really like these pens: Zebra Pen, Sarasa Gel Retractable Pen, Medium, 0.7mm, Black Ink. As far as chemical sensitivities, they have been tolerable for me right out of the packaging. However, these pens are much more expensive than a BIC ballpoint pen. If the pens get chemicals on them, I found that if I remove the ink cartridge and the rubber grip from the Sarasa pen, I can put them through the dishwasher. However, it is a little bit of work to take them apart, wash them, and put them back together.
BIC pens
I use a lot of BIC pens. I like these because they usually work even after they go through the dishwasher. I mostly use two types:
BIC Ultra Round Stic Grip Ball Pen, Medium Point, 1.2mm, Black.
BIC Round Stic Ball Pen, Medium Point, 1.0 mm, Black.
Good luck!
Tuesday, February 19, 2013
Book Review: Strategies for Surviving Chemical Sensitivity, the basics (2010)
Title: Strategies for Surviving Chemical Sensitivity, the basics (2010)
Author: Dr. Robert Mayer
Published by: Chemical Injury Information Network
ISBN: 0578055481
Pages: 204
This book is a great starting place for those who have chemical sensitivity. Because I grew up with my dad having chemical sensitivity and because I had been chemically sensitive for some years, I didn’t think the book would be very helpful to me. However, I learned a lot of great things from this book that have helped me substantially. A book or other resource such as this is important for those with this illness because chemical sensitivity is so rare and advice from those experienced with chemical sensitivity is very valuable for those who are new to it.
At 204 pages, the book is not very long. The book does not go into great depth into the covered topics but provides a good overview of a variety of issues faced by those with chemical sensitivity. Also, because it provides references to websites and other resources, it can serve as a springboard to explore various areas. Some of the topics the book covers include: issues related to housing and automobiles, finding a physician, and trying to have social experiences. One of the parts of the book I found most helpful was the results of a survey of people with chemical sensitivity. Based the survey, the researchers compiled a list of treatments that have been beneficial for the chemically sensitive.
Author: Dr. Robert Mayer
Published by: Chemical Injury Information Network
ISBN: 0578055481
Pages: 204
This book is a great starting place for those who have chemical sensitivity. Because I grew up with my dad having chemical sensitivity and because I had been chemically sensitive for some years, I didn’t think the book would be very helpful to me. However, I learned a lot of great things from this book that have helped me substantially. A book or other resource such as this is important for those with this illness because chemical sensitivity is so rare and advice from those experienced with chemical sensitivity is very valuable for those who are new to it.
At 204 pages, the book is not very long. The book does not go into great depth into the covered topics but provides a good overview of a variety of issues faced by those with chemical sensitivity. Also, because it provides references to websites and other resources, it can serve as a springboard to explore various areas. Some of the topics the book covers include: issues related to housing and automobiles, finding a physician, and trying to have social experiences. One of the parts of the book I found most helpful was the results of a survey of people with chemical sensitivity. Based the survey, the researchers compiled a list of treatments that have been beneficial for the chemically sensitive.
Monday, February 18, 2013
Product Review: Granite Ware Stock Pot
This is a great item for the chemically sensitive. I purchased a 21-quart Granite Ware stock pot from Amazon.com in January of 2012 for just under $30. I use this pot to keep my clothing free of chemicals. After my clothes are done drying, I put them directly into this pot, which I keep next to the shower. I can fit three days’ worth of clothing into this pot. If the pot gets chemicals on it, I just put it through the dishwasher, as it just barely fits.
The pot is steel with a layer of porcelain on the outside, so it cleans up easily. The pot I purchased was made in Mexico. Based on the reviews at Amazon.com, the porcelain can chip if something hard bangs against it, but mine has not chipped. Also, I have never used the pot for cooking, but it should not be used on glass stovetops. Because the metal is so thin, the food will burn if used on a glass stovetop.
I like these pots because they are generally much less expensive than a stainless steel pot of a similar size. Additionally, I have had problems with some stainless steel pots. Some of them seen to have solvent embedded into the metal. No matter how many times they go through the dishwasher, they still have chemicals on them that make me ill. For example, we purchased a Calphalon pot (made in China) for about $90. Even after it went through the dishwasher more than ten times, it was still toxic and unusable.
Shop Granite Ware Stock Pots at Amazon.com
I have purchased two of these pots and they have been great:
The pot is steel with a layer of porcelain on the outside, so it cleans up easily. The pot I purchased was made in Mexico. Based on the reviews at Amazon.com, the porcelain can chip if something hard bangs against it, but mine has not chipped. Also, I have never used the pot for cooking, but it should not be used on glass stovetops. Because the metal is so thin, the food will burn if used on a glass stovetop.
I like these pots because they are generally much less expensive than a stainless steel pot of a similar size. Additionally, I have had problems with some stainless steel pots. Some of them seen to have solvent embedded into the metal. No matter how many times they go through the dishwasher, they still have chemicals on them that make me ill. For example, we purchased a Calphalon pot (made in China) for about $90. Even after it went through the dishwasher more than ten times, it was still toxic and unusable.
Shop Granite Ware Stock Pots at Amazon.com
I have purchased two of these pots and they have been great:
Saturday, February 16, 2013
Disposable Gloves for the Chemically Sensitive
I really depend on disposable gloves. With these gloves, I can do the dishes, prepare meals, use the computer, and do other work around the house. Without the gloves, I would be constantly washing my hands to remove chemical residues.
Using disposable gloves can be a pretty expensive habit and I am trying to cut back. You can reuse them as much as you want until they get chemicals on them. Using disposable gloves is helpful to keep toxic chemicals from spreading around the house. If you get chemicals on them, you can just throw the gloves away, and the chemicals cannot spread from your gloves to other things you touch.
Sometimes I wear these gloves out in public when I go shopping. However, people may think you have some contagious disease if you wear nitrile gloves because people typically see such gloves in the health care profession. Therefore, sometimes I wear other gloves over the nitrile gloves. I wear some mechanics gloves over mine but you could also wear cotton, leather or other gloves--perhaps washable gloves.
I also use disposable gloves to protect things that I want to keep chemical-free. If you are chemically sensitive to the touch, you know that sometimes you have chemicals on your hands and do not even know it. When this is the case, we spread the chemicals to everything we touch. Therefore, I use gloves when I use my computer because it is critical that I keep my computer chemical-free. I also have used gloves to keep other things chemical-free, such as books, cell phones, notebooks, and pens.
To prevent contamination of clean gloves, I wash my hands then put clean plastic gloves on my hands. Then I tear open the box of gloves and take out a bunch of gloves from the box and put them on a plate that is straight out of the dishwasher. I find that this works much easier than pulling the gloves out of the box through the hole at the front.
I use a combination of two different types of gloves: (1) high-density polyethylene (hereinafter “plastic gloves”); and (2) nitrile gloves. If you are very chemically sensitive to the touch, you know that many chemicals will go through a single plastic glove. Therefore, to obtain additional protection, it is necessary to wear multiple layers of gloves. On each hand, I wear five layers of the plastic gloves followed by one nitrile glove. Besides providing additional protection from chemicals, the nitrile gloves provide a much better grip than the plastic gloves.
Polyethylene gloves. I buy a brand called “Clean Ones” at Costco stores. I have also seen them for sale at Amazon.com. I have not had problems with these gloves having chemical residues on them. The last time I purchased these gloves, they cost about $12 for 2000 gloves (4 packs of 500). Therefore, the gloves cost about 1/2 of a penny each.
I will rank the PE gloves I have used on a scale from 1 to 10 (1 being the best and 10 being the most toxic).
•Clean Ones: 1
•Daily Chef: 1-2
•Member's Mark: 4-5
•Choice Disposable Gloves: 7
Nitrile gloves. I buy the Kirkland brand from Costco, but the gloves are manufactured by Kimberly-Clark. The Kirkland nitrile gloves are grey, but Kimberly Clark sells gloves of different colors through different distribution channels. I have only tried the grey ones and they have not caused problems for me as far as chemical sensitivity. The last time I purchased these gloves I think they cost $17-$20 for 400 (2 packs of 200). If they cost $20, that would amount to five cents per glove.
Nitrile gloves are generally good for chemical protection.[1][2] Sometimes it is helpful to wear double gloves. (Id.) One thing I found it interesting from the sites listed below is that certain types of gloves protect against certain solvents much better than others. (See Id.) If you know what chemical you are dealing with, you might try a glove that is especially effective at blocking that chemical.
The other issue I have faced is that I cannot use some nitrile gloves because they cause me symptoms. I will rank the gloves I have used on a scale from 1 to 10 (1 being the best and 10 being the most toxic).
•Ammex black nitrile: 1
•Infi-touch white (or beige?) cleanroom gloves: 1
•Infi-touch blue: 1 or 2 (the ones I purchased have a thickness of 6 mil, which is about twice as thick as most other nitrile gloves I have tried. The thickness makes it so less chemicals get through but they are also more expensive and can be a little harder to get on and off.)
•Curad: 3
•Kimberly Clark (now Halyard): 4 (These used to be a 1 before Halyard bought Kimberly Clark. I have tried purple, lavender, and grey.)
•Acceletrator-free gloves from Hourglass Intl.: 4
•Microflex: 5
•Relion: 10
•Infi-touch white (or beige?) cleanroom gloves: 1
•Infi-touch blue: 1 or 2 (the ones I purchased have a thickness of 6 mil, which is about twice as thick as most other nitrile gloves I have tried. The thickness makes it so less chemicals get through but they are also more expensive and can be a little harder to get on and off.)
•Curad: 3
•Kimberly Clark (now Halyard): 4 (These used to be a 1 before Halyard bought Kimberly Clark. I have tried purple, lavender, and grey.)
•Acceletrator-free gloves from Hourglass Intl.: 4
•Microflex: 5
•Relion: 10
I usually put on five polyethylene "Clean Ones" or "Daily Chef" gloves (from Sam's club) under the nitrile gloves. The polyethylene gloves give me additional thickness at a fraction of the cost of the nitrile gloves. I use nitrile gloves on top for grip and to lessen the bulk of the polyethylene gloves. I also tried Choice PE gloves but they seem to have more chemicals that give me symptoms.
Non-disposable gloves: If you need some really thick gloves to keep free of chemicals, Bluettes have worked well for my dad and I. We cut a few inches off the bottom so that they are easier to get on and off. We put them through the washing machine when we first buy them to remove chemicals from them. We also put them through the washing machine if they get chemicals on them.
Disposable Garbage Receptacles
I am chemically sensitive, and getting disposable garbage containers has made my life a lot easier. Because items with chemicals on them are frequently thrown in the trash, trash receptacles invariably have chemicals on them. I have had to get rid of some trash cans for this reason. I found that my hands would burn with chemical residue after I touched the trash can to empty it.
I purchased some brown paper disposable trash bags at Home Depot. They are very large (30 gallon; 16 in. x 12 in. x 35 in.). The bags can stand up on their own once they are unfolded. Last time I checked, Home Depot only sells the bags in stores and not online. However, the company at the following website makes similar bags: http://www.danoinc.com/ecolobag.html. Here is what the bags look like:
Another option is to purchase trash receptacles that are small enough to fit in the dishwasher, so that the chemicals can be washed away.
I purchased some brown paper disposable trash bags at Home Depot. They are very large (30 gallon; 16 in. x 12 in. x 35 in.). The bags can stand up on their own once they are unfolded. Last time I checked, Home Depot only sells the bags in stores and not online. However, the company at the following website makes similar bags: http://www.danoinc.com/ecolobag.html. Here is what the bags look like:
Another option is to purchase trash receptacles that are small enough to fit in the dishwasher, so that the chemicals can be washed away.
Friday, February 15, 2013
Bar Soap for the Chemically Sensitive
My dad and I are both extremely chemically sensitive and the purpose of this post is to share the bar soaps that my dad and I can use.
I also wanted to share the idea of cutting bar soap into smaller pieces: If you are chemically sensitive to the touch, you know that chemicals from your hands can spread to the soap. If the chemicals are very strong, it is sometimes necessary to throw away the entire bar of soap. To avoid wasting so much soap, I cut bars of soap into smaller pieces with a knife and a plate that are straight out of the dishwasher. I then put the pieces of soap in a quart jar and put a lid on the jar. If the soap is left out in the open air, it will rapidly dry out. I leave a bowl of pieces of soap near the sink to use. A quart jar of cut up Kiss my Face soap:
To cut soap, I have found that the knife I use is important. I use a long knife with a sturdy but thin blade. If the blade is too thick then the soap will break. Also, of the soaps below, Ivory cuts quite easily because there is a lot of air in it. Dr. Bronner's just crumbles and does not cut into pieces well. Kiss My Face is difficult to cut because it is so dense but makes very nice little soaps that last quite a while. (see pic below)
Ivory (original): I use tons of this and it is quite inexpensive. I purchase it at Walmart. I think a package of eight to ten bars costs around $5.
Dr. Bronner's Magic Soaps Pure-Castile Soap, All-One Hemp Almond: My dad and I can use this soap but it is more expensive than Ivory. Ingredients: Organic coconut oil, Organic palm oil, sodium Hydroxide (none remains after saponifying oils into soap and glycerin), Water, Organic Olive oil, Organic Hemp oil, Organic Jojoba oil, Natural Almond fragrance, Salt, Citric Acid and tocepherol. This soap comes in many different varieties, and this is just one type:
Kiss my Face Pure Olive Oil bar soap: This soap is also expensive but it is the best soap I have come across as far as my chemical sensitivities. My dad says he does not think that this soap removes chemicals from his skin as well as other soaps. This soap does sting if it gets in your eyes. This soap is dense and lasts a lot longer than Ivory. The soap I bought came in huge bars and they are solid and heavy. Careful not to drop it on your foot! The soap is a green bar and has the distinctive smell of olive oil. Ingredients: Saponified Olive Oil, Water, Sodium Chloride.
N.E.E.D.S. sells some kings of soap I can tolerate and they seem pretty reasonably priced. The two brands below can be purchased from their website.
Green Mountain Soap - Original, Unscented (they also make a liquid soap for soap dispensers)
Clearly Natural Essentials - Unscented - Glycerin Soap
Laundry Detergent for the Chemically Sensitive
In this post I will share some of the brands of laundry detergent that I can tolerate. I know that not everyone with chemical sensitivity can tolerate the same products. However, both my dad and I are extremely chemically sensitive, and we can both tolerate most of these products pretty well.
I like to use the powder form of detergents because I can put the powder into a container near the washing machine. I can then use a spoon to put the detergent into the washing machine. With the liquid form, I have to handle the bottle of liquid to put the detergent into the washing machine. If you are chemically sensitive to the touch, you know that the less you touch, the better. If there are chemicals on the bottle of liquid laundry detergent, my hands get chemicals on them each time I do a load of laundry. If my spoon gets chemicals on it, I just put it into the dishwasher.
Here are the laundry detergents that work well for me:
Country Save: This is probably the least toxic detergent for me that I have come across. It is expensive, however. I use the powder form.
Click here to view the selection of Country Save at Amazon.com
OxiClean: I use this regularly and it works really well. I buy it in bulk from Costco. It is less expensive than Country Save and Seventh Generation.
Click here to view the selection of Oxiclean at Amazon.com
Seventh Generation: I can tolerate a number of the detergents that Seventh Generation produces. Some of the Seventh Generation detergents have a pretty strong odor, but the odor does not bother me.
Click here to view the selection of Seventh Generation laundry detergent at Amazon.com
I like to use the powder form of detergents because I can put the powder into a container near the washing machine. I can then use a spoon to put the detergent into the washing machine. With the liquid form, I have to handle the bottle of liquid to put the detergent into the washing machine. If you are chemically sensitive to the touch, you know that the less you touch, the better. If there are chemicals on the bottle of liquid laundry detergent, my hands get chemicals on them each time I do a load of laundry. If my spoon gets chemicals on it, I just put it into the dishwasher.
Here are the laundry detergents that work well for me:
Country Save: This is probably the least toxic detergent for me that I have come across. It is expensive, however. I use the powder form.
Click here to view the selection of Country Save at Amazon.com
OxiClean: I use this regularly and it works really well. I buy it in bulk from Costco. It is less expensive than Country Save and Seventh Generation.
Click here to view the selection of Oxiclean at Amazon.com
Seventh Generation: I can tolerate a number of the detergents that Seventh Generation produces. Some of the Seventh Generation detergents have a pretty strong odor, but the odor does not bother me.
Click here to view the selection of Seventh Generation laundry detergent at Amazon.com
Thursday, February 14, 2013
Boiling Clothing for the Chemically Sensitive
I have found that boiling clothing is an effective way to remove some chemicals from clothing so that they are wearable for a person with Chemical Sensitivity. Boiling clothing can remove Volatile Organic Compounds (VOCs) and other chemicals that cause problems for people with Chemical Sensitivity.
Here are some tips for boiling clothing:
- I usually put clothes through the wash two or three times before I boil them. Then I boil the clothes all day, two days in a row. After that, I wash the clothes a few more times. If the clothes are still really toxic after all of that, I usually give up on the clothes. Some chemicals cannot be removed from clothing with boiling. I have not had good luck with clothing that is “wrinkle free.”
- Do not boil different items of clothing together unless you are sure that chemicals from one piece of clothing will not contaminate other clothing.
- I put some ingredients into the pot prior to boiling. I use one cup of salt, one cup of baking soda, and a little bit of soap or detergent.
- Do not let the pot of boiling clothing run out of water! I put a tissue on my bed to remind me that my clothes are boiling so that I do not go to sleep without turning off the heat.
- It is best to start with clothing that is as chemical-free as possible. Organic clothing is quite pricey, but I generally do better with organic clothing. However, I have found I cannot wear a lot of clothing that purports to be organic. I previously wrote a post in which I listed the clothing that has worked well for me.
- Do not boil shoes that are held together with glue. I tried this once and my shoes fell apart. I will note, however, that my shoes were much less toxic after boiling them.
Options for heating the water:
1. A 220V hotplate.
You will probably need an electrician to install the wiring and outlet. It should be installed outside or in the garage so that the fumes from the clothing do not come into the house. This option could cost $400 to $500 for the hotplate and the wiring. I purchased a 110V hotplate a while back and it could not even bring eight quarts of water to a rolling boil. Check the specs on the hotplate to make sure it can boil the amount of water you need. Also, let your electrician know the specs on the hotplate so he or she can install the right wiring and outlet.
2. Use the kitchen stove.
Do not boil clothing inside your house unless you are not sensitive to airborne chemicals. I tried boiling clothes on the kitchen stove once and it made me ill. Perhaps someone else could boil the clothing while the chemically sensitive person is away. After the clothes are done boiling, the house could be aired out.
3. Use a roasting oven.
Roasting ovens generally cost $20 to $70. I have used a GE roasting oven to boil clothing successfully for many years. The downside is that the water does not get as hot it would if I were to use a 220V hotplate. The water does not come to a rolling boil until much of the water has steamed off. But it has worked really well to remove chemicals from my clothing. My roasting oven can hold about six t-shirts at a time. I also like my roasting oven because there is a removable roasting pan that I can put through the dishwasher if it becomes dirty or acquires chemical residues.
Amazon.com has a variety of roasting ovens. Click here to see their selection.
4. Use a propane stove.
Propane makes me ill but since the clothes would be boiling outside, maybe it wouldn't be so bad.
I learned some of the principles above about boiling clothing from the following site: http://planetthrive.com/2010/08/washing-clothes/. The aforementioned planetthrive article is very good, but I also wanted to share the roasting oven idea, as well a few other ideas, so I did this post.
Clothing for the Chemically Sensitive
One of the most stressful things for a chemically sensitive person is to run out of clothing. I would wear clothing until it would literally be falling apart. Sometimes I would purchase clothing, wash it numerous times, and it would still make me sick, so I would give it to the thrift store. I was worried I would not be able to purchase clothing I could wear. I finally found some clothing I could wear, so the purpose of this post is to share what has worked for me.
Organic clothing is quite pricey, but I generally do better with organic clothing. However, I have found I cannot wear a lot of clothing that purports to be organic. Here is a list of the clothing that I can tolerate:
Esperanza Threads (http://www.esperanzathreads.com/). I have bought at least five pairs of sweatpants from this company and they have been the most chemical-free of any clothing I have come across.
Patagonia. (http://www.patagonia.com/us/home). I have purchased around 15 to 25 items of organic clothing from this company and have been able to wear all of them! I have purchased levis, khakis, collared shirts, flannel shirts, lots of white t-shirts, and other items. The clothing is expensive, but sometimes there are sales. Sign up to receive emails if you want to be notified of their sales. I have purchased two items of synthetic clothing from Patagonia and was not able to wear them.
Lands’ End (http://www.landsend.com/). I have done great with some white dress shirts (No Iron Pinpoint Oxford) I purchased from Lands’ End. I was able to wear them after boiling them and numerous washings.
Adidas. (http://www.adidas.com/). Polyester clothing generally lasts a lot longer than cotton clothing. I purchased some pants direct from Adidas’ website that I was able to wear after boiling and numerous washings. The pants are the Firebird Track Pants, Item: X41215. They are black with white stripes and they cost $61.52.
JC Penney. I purchased some pants from this company and was able to wear them after numerous washings and boiling them: "Stafford® Essentials Pleated Dress Pants, Item #FC553-4780D, color: Grey Tic, $20.00 clearance." I also purchased the following pants from the same company but could not remove the chemicals: "jcp Flat-Front Dress Chinos, Item #FC560-8259D."
Socks:
Maggies Organics (http://www.maggiesorganics.com/). I have purchased a lot of socks from this company. I buy the “99% cotton allergy crew.” I have tried their other socks that have a lower percentage of organic cotton and I was not able to wear them.
Hanes. I bought three packages of these socks: "Hanes Cushion Crew Socks 10 Pack, 10-13-White." I put them through many washings--probably about 16 hours of washing. The socks still made me a little bit sick after all those washings so I boiled them in my roasting oven (see my post on boiling clothing) for about 16 hours. After I boiled them and washed them a couple more times I could wear them and they didn't make me sick. It is so nice to have plenty of socks to wear now. These socks are much less expensive than the socks from Maggies Organics, but it takes more work to remove the chemicals from them.
Organic clothing is quite pricey, but I generally do better with organic clothing. However, I have found I cannot wear a lot of clothing that purports to be organic. Here is a list of the clothing that I can tolerate:
Esperanza Threads (http://www.esperanzathreads.com/). I have bought at least five pairs of sweatpants from this company and they have been the most chemical-free of any clothing I have come across.
Patagonia. (http://www.patagonia.com/us/home). I have purchased around 15 to 25 items of organic clothing from this company and have been able to wear all of them! I have purchased levis, khakis, collared shirts, flannel shirts, lots of white t-shirts, and other items. The clothing is expensive, but sometimes there are sales. Sign up to receive emails if you want to be notified of their sales. I have purchased two items of synthetic clothing from Patagonia and was not able to wear them.
Lands’ End (http://www.landsend.com/). I have done great with some white dress shirts (No Iron Pinpoint Oxford) I purchased from Lands’ End. I was able to wear them after boiling them and numerous washings.
Adidas. (http://www.adidas.com/). Polyester clothing generally lasts a lot longer than cotton clothing. I purchased some pants direct from Adidas’ website that I was able to wear after boiling and numerous washings. The pants are the Firebird Track Pants, Item: X41215. They are black with white stripes and they cost $61.52.
JC Penney. I purchased some pants from this company and was able to wear them after numerous washings and boiling them: "Stafford® Essentials Pleated Dress Pants, Item #FC553-4780D, color: Grey Tic, $20.00 clearance." I also purchased the following pants from the same company but could not remove the chemicals: "jcp Flat-Front Dress Chinos, Item #FC560-8259D."
Socks:
Maggies Organics (http://www.maggiesorganics.com/). I have purchased a lot of socks from this company. I buy the “99% cotton allergy crew.” I have tried their other socks that have a lower percentage of organic cotton and I was not able to wear them.
Hanes. I bought three packages of these socks: "Hanes Cushion Crew Socks 10 Pack, 10-13-White." I put them through many washings--probably about 16 hours of washing. The socks still made me a little bit sick after all those washings so I boiled them in my roasting oven (see my post on boiling clothing) for about 16 hours. After I boiled them and washed them a couple more times I could wear them and they didn't make me sick. It is so nice to have plenty of socks to wear now. These socks are much less expensive than the socks from Maggies Organics, but it takes more work to remove the chemicals from them.
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